Aside from the originality of the design and its artistic merit, successful costume designing with dress patterns depends on perfect fit.

PERFECT FIT DEPENDS ON ACCURATE MEASURES.

In transferring the size and shape of the three dimensions of the human figure to the flat planes of the pattern and thence to the draping of the fabric, certain basic measurements have to be taken in every case — and this is notwithstanding the loose or tight fit of the finished creation. In ready made patterns the measurements are the ideal or average pro­portions for each size listed.

HOWEVER FIGURES WITH  PERFECT PROPORTIONS ARE VERY RARE.

For this reason — if you are going to be a successful designer — you will have to learn how to take accurate measurements and how to trans­late them into the finished product — your work of art.

THE PROCEDURE

Have the person being measured wear a plain dress or sheath with high un-trimmed neckline, plain set in sleeves or sleeveless regular armhole, and straight skirt.

Mark the center front at neck and waistline

Mark  the  center back at neck  and waistline

Mark both shoulder seams at armhole and neck

Mark both side seams at armhole and waistline

Mark both side seams at fullest part of hip

Mark  center  front and back at the same level as hip measure.

MEASURING FOR READY-MADE DRESS PATTERNS

To order the proper size in ready made patterns the measurements required are a great deal simpler, however, during the construction of the garment a number of alterations may have to be made. On the market today there are basic patterns which can be adjusted to the in­dividuals special figure problems and which can be used as a basic guide for all pattern alterations required. These are usually made of non-woven material, firm and inelastic, so that they can be pinned or sewn, and fitted and refitted.

HOW TO MEASURE FOR COMMERCIAL DRESS PATTERNS

Bust — over the fullest part of the bust and completely around figure keeping tape measure straight across the back. Take this measure while chest is ex­panded.

Waist — snug but not tight — around the natural waistline.

Waist length — from nape of neck to natural waistline.

Hips — around the fullest part of the hips.

Recently not only the ready-to-wear designers, but the pattern makers as well, have recognized the fact that the human shape differs not only in its circumference but also in the lengths of corresponding parts — such as, for example, the waistlength. Patterns are designed today not only in misses' and women's sizes but also in half sizes, petite, and junior sizes. In the last three the waistlength is shorter than average. It helps therefore to keep this measurement in mind when selecting your pattern — particularly that certain styles are designed to espe­cially flatter these figures.

STANDARD SIZES FOR COMMERCIAL DRESS PATTERNS

READY TO WEAR

Standard sizes in patterns differ from the standard sizes for ready to wear — generally, ready to wear is slightly larger for the size marked than the pattern. Also, proportionate sizes differ somewhat between va­rious wholesale houses as the basic pattern is made to fit a living model and the rest of the sizes are graded therefrom.

DRAFTING PROCEDURES AND SUPPLIES

THE BASIC SHEATH

The basic sheath is the simplest style possible to fit the figure ac­curately yet not so snugly as to create wrinkles and bulges. When this sheath is made for pattern purposes it is best to use some firm non-woven material such as Pellon to provide ease for fitting and altering and at the same time to prevent the shapes of various parts from stretching out of proportion. In the past, muslin was the chief material used for this purpose — but today there are many other materials which surpass this.

SLOPERS, BLOCKS

Slopers, or blocks, are the foundation patterns designed for a specific size. They are usually made of heavy paper — but firm non-woven material can be used as well. For a normal figure only half the pattern is required. For major differences — or even slight ones — in order to have a perfect fit and have the garment hang or drape properly, it is worth the extra trouble to draft each side separately.

All designs and patterns are variations of the basic sloper or block.

Front Fullness Waistline Depth

H-F to H equals 6-1 (the distance from center front at neckline to shoulder seam at armscye).

I—Extend this line (F-G-H) to a point on line D-E. Mark this point I.

J—Start from point IB and find a point on line D-E equal to the measure of 1-5 (center front at neckline to side seam at waist).

K—Distance from J to K equals measure of side seam 3-5 (waist to armscye).

L—Square a line from K to center front equal to measure of 3-4.

M—Square a line from G to line L-K. Mark this point M.

N—Mark this point a distance of 7-8" on the diagonal from M to I.

O—Extend line A beyond IB so that distance from 2C through IB to new point O equals 7-10 (the measure from waistline to shoulder seam at neckline. Square a line to P. O-P to equal measure 6-1.

P—Square a line to H.

Q—Find point Q on line P-H by taking a line equal to measure 6-2 from center front at waist to shoulder seam at armscye. Draw a curved line from G to Q to complete armscye of front half of bodice.

Shoulder Slope

R—Start from Q and find a point on line O-P equal to the measure 6-7 (shoulder seam). Mark this point R.

Neckline Curve

S—Square a  line from  point R to line B-D.  Mark this point S.

T—Measure a point 1/2" from S on line S-O. Draw a curved line from R-7 to B-l to complete one-half of neckline.

U—To find  point U draw diagonals from  L4 to J5 and from C2 to Gil.  Mark the point at which they cross.

V & W—Square a line from center front and side seam lines to pass through point U.

To  Form Front Waistline  Dart

X—Square a line from U to E.

Y—Starting from X measure   1/2" toward  C. Mark this  point Y and  draw line from

Y to U.

Z—To find point Z draw line from X to J. Measure C to Y, deduct from waist measure (2-5), and starting from J measure the balance of waist measure on line J-X. Mark this point Z. Draw a line from Z to U. Draw another line between Y and Z. This distance equals the reduction on waistline. The distance from C to Y plus the distance from Z to J equals 1/2 of front waistline measure. The waistline dart is formed by the lines Y to U and Z to U.

DRAFTING THE HIPLITSE FOUNDATION

DRAFTING THE SLOPER FOR THE SKIRT FOUNDATION

1. Use hipline part of previous foundation as guide. Trace on heavy paper.
2. Raise side seams 1/4 inch at waistline and hipline. Draw new lines. Taper them off at dart lines.
3. Continue side lines the same distance at side seam and center front down to desired skirt length.

The measure from side seam to center front will normally be about five to six inches wider at hem than at waist.

Follow the same procedure for back and front sections.

TO ELIMINATE WAIST DART AT FRONT

I. Slash dart. Measure I 1/2 inches in from side seam. Close up dart and bring section A side seam to this point. Draw new lines as indi­cated by solid lines.

2. Draw similar new lines on section B (skirt back) but this time only 1/2 inch in at waistline side seam so that seam lengths of A and B correspond.

GRADING

To change your dress patterns from one size of another a procedure called "grading" is followed. Any pattern can be reduced or enlarged in the same way.

The dotted lines on the figures show the sections into which the basic patterns are divided for size changes.

DRAFTING A PLAIN SLEEVE SLOPER

1. Use the hipline foundation as a guide for making  the  plain  sleeve sloper. Place front and back sections together so that seam lines at armhole and hipline touch. Trace the combined outline.
2. Measure 3/4 inch above A and mark point B. Draw line from A through point where side seams touch at hipline, continue to C. The distance from A to C will be 17 inches. Square a line through C. Mark the point where line A-C crosses the waistline at X. The distance from J-X is 2  3/4"  and  from X to  K is 2  3/4"  also.  Find line E by taking 1/3 of armhole circumference, add 1/2 inch, and mark this distance in a straight line upward from A. G is halfway between line E and D on the front edge of armhole. Mark I on a level with G  I  inch apart.

F is 1/2 inch above the level of I-G. Mark this point on the back edge of armhole. Measure point H on the same level with F I inch apart.

Find line D by squaring a line from A at the lower edge of armhole at side seam.

3. Draw a line through I and J. Extend it upward to line E (capline) to point marked L The same line passes through point P on line D and down through J to M on the line squared from C. Draw a similar line through H and K up to point N and down through Q and K to O.
4. Divide line L-N into 4 equal parts—marked R, S and T in the diagram. Find center point between P-A (mark this U). Measure I inch from A toward Q (point marked V). Connect R to I, I to U, V to H, and H to T for guide lines.
5. Draw curved lines from I to S, S to H, H to B, and I to B.

6. Slash lower half of sleeve from J to K. Pivot from point J to a point (W) 1/2 inch from M. Lengthen C-X line to meet X and Y-K line to meet K.
7. Trace the outline of sleeve from I-B-H to W-C-Y. Slash along center line from C through X and B, and again from X to J and X to K. Num­ber these sections I, 2, 3 and 4. Place section I with points I and J touching, section 2 with points J and W touching, section 3 with points H and K touching, and section 4 with K and Y touching. Section 4 will have a space between the 2 X points which forms the dart on the back seam of the sleeve.
8. The complicated sleeve sloper. When making your pattern from this, don't forget to add on seam allowances.

To allow for shoulder pads the ease allowance in sleeve cap should be increased by slashing from top of capline to elbow and across at underarm points of armhole and at elbow bend. Spread the four sections so that the cap is 1/2 inch higher and that there is a 1/2 inch spread at underarm.

DRAFTING SLOPERS FOR CULOTTES

I. Use the skirt sloper for your guide. Trace the outline. Place side seams together as in diagram. Measure crotch line by taking distance from waist­ line to chair of seated figure. Measure an additional one inch for ease. Mark this total measure on seam line.

II. Take the measure of distance between crotch line and bottom of skirt guide and mark a similar depth on center front and center back lines. Square the crotch line beyond center front for one half of the distance less

IV Slash through center front and center back. Spread each section 3 or more inches apart from hemline to waistline. (The amount of spread con­trols the depth and number of pleats.) This, your basic culotte sloper, completes one half of your pattern. Many variations can be worked with this sloper as your guide. All around pleats, circular effects, various inside lines of design, and other changes can be made by the same slash-and-spread method used for any skirt pattern.

TO SEW: After you have cut two sets of front and back sections Join leg seams A to B for right half. Repeat for left leg seam. Press open. Place right section on left, right sides facing. Match center fronts, crotch lines, and leg seams. Sew from CF through A to CB. Tack and press in pleats. Sew side seams. Place placket in seam on left side. Attach waist band.

SLACKS

Measure   line   C-D   equal   to length of side seams from waist to ankles. On this line mark hipline (E). Mark crotch point (F) the dis­tance from waist to chair of seated figure. Mark knee line (G) midway between hipline and ankle line.

1. Measure hips and square a line across C-D at hip line. Mark  ¼ of hip measure plus I" from side  seam to front and back centers. Mark these points A and B re­spectively.

Square a line at A and draw it from ankles to waistline. End it 1/2" lower than side seam at cen­ter front.

Using a line from A to B as radius, arc a line from B up toward waist on the back center. This will be used for a guide line.

3. Crotch line: Extend line H-F toward center front to   I   1/4 of the distance between H and F. Measure   1  1/2"  diagonally  out­ ward and upward from point H to J.

Draw a curved line from I through J to a point halfway to A on the front center line. Draw another curved line from I to kneeline (O).

Extend crotch line from F toward center back the same distance to K and beyond L. L to K equals  I to H.

(The line F to L equals the distance between H-F plus one half.) Draw a line I  1/4" diagonally out and up at K to M. Draw  a   line  from  K  up  toward waist   just   touching   the   curved guide  line.  Extend   line to waist­line (N). The distance from K to N is 2 inches greater than the cor­responding   line  at center front. Connect L to line K - N curving it to pass through point M and taper­ing curve toward  point B. Square a  line at K and  draw it down to ankle line at O. Curve a line from L to knee line at P.

Legs: At the ankle line measure a point (Q) one inch from side seam (D) toward center back. Draw a line from this point (Q) to E for side seam guide.

Mark your crease lines by finding exact center of both front and back sections at ankle and knee lines. Extend the crease line to the hip line.

Taper the leg pattern by measuring equal distances in at the ankle line (about 3/4" at center front, each side of side seam, and again at center back).

Draw a line from this point at ankle line to knee line at center front and center back and to the crotch line at side seam.

Mark centers (R) of A to E and (S) of E to B.

C2 to U is equal to 1/2 of back waistline. Draw line from S to U.

Cl to T is equal to 1/2 of front waist.

Connect Cl through T to C and C through U to C2 with a slightly curved line.

Reduce waistline to equal one half of waist measure by taking off 1/2" at center front seam, 1 1/2" at side seam of front section, and 1/2" at side seam of back section.

(If the waistline is proportionately very much smaller these reductions may have to be greater.)

Section I

At point T measure off an equal and sufficient distance on each side of T to bring the measure between the reduced side seam and center front seam equal to the waist measure from center front to side seam. Form the front pleat at T.

Section II

At point U measure off equal and sufficient amounts on either side to reduce to waist measure from center back to side seam. Form a dart at these points to a point on line U - S 6" below waistline.

CUTTING AND SPREADING—PATTERN ALTERATIONS

Basic slopers are in fact flat dress forms. All design changes are worked from the slopers by cutting and spreading. This same method is also used in making size changes and any individual figure changes for any given design or style, as well as changes in the design itself of the dress patterns. Trace the outline of the sloper on heavy paper. Mark the points for pat­tern changes. Draw lines between point, slash accordingly and spread to new proportions. Trace new outline on another paper. Mark all matching points and cut out your new size or revised design.

BODICE ALTERATIONS

DRAFTING VARIATIONS ON THE WAIST

DRAFTING VARIATIONS ON SLEEVES

DRAFTING VARIATIONS ON SLEEVES

VARIATIONS ON INSIDE LINES OF DESIGN

COLLAR VARIATIONS

DRAFTING POCKET VARIATIONS

SUPPLIES AND EQUIPMENT

Dress forms are essential for proper fitting and draping. You can make your own dress form by glueing strips of gummed paper tape over gauze draped over the figure. Use short pieces and keep overlapping.

When the entire figure is completely taped to hip line, cut open with blunt-nosed scissors along a straight line at the center of back from hip line to neck line. Allow to dry thoroughly.

Put together by overlapping J4 inch at center back line. Recheck your measurements. Make your corrections by slashing and overlapping at sides. Criss cross tape over these areas.

When you are satisfied with the measurements reinforce the entire form with additional layers of gummed paper tape on the inside. At least two layers will be needed to strengthen your form. Trim neck, armholes, and hip line — fold strip of tape over the edges. Again allow to dry thoroughly. Coat the inside with shellac. Repeat over the entire outside. If you use more than one coat of shellac be sure to let the form dry thoroughly between coats.

Trace the circumference of the lower edge on heavy cardboard. If you intend to use an old lamp stand or broom stick for your stand, cut a hole in the center of your cardboard shape. Cut several thicknesses of cardboard to the same size and glue one on top of the other for greater strength. Attach this to the inside of your form. Repeat the same procedure for the neckhole — however this does not need to be so heavily reinforced. Cut a hole through the center at a point perpendicularly above the hole in the bottom card­board — this will be the point at which the stick you use as part of your stand will protrude in order to keep the form erect. Take care at this stage so that the form will not lean in any direction — make sure it will be erect.

Sew a jersey cotton foundation sheath to measure, slip over your taped form — and you're all set.

Suitable dress forms can also be bought from various sources — you will find advertisements in most needlework or books for dress patterns. These are of various adjustable types — and your choice depends entirely upon your own preference.

In addition to the above it might prove helpful to have a padded sleeve — this can be made by removing a long fitted sleeve from an old dress, padding it with any suitable material, and sewing the ends to keep the padding in place.

ADDITIONAL EQUIPMENT

Tailor's square                          Chalk   Muslin

T square                                   Colored pencils Light weight Pellon

Triangle French curve                Tissue paper

Ruler     Scissors                       Heavy Craft paper

Tape measure                           Tracing wheel   or wrapping paper

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